The Wines
French Connections
Sauvignon Blanc
- Old World Roots: France (Bordeaux, see 1)
- New World Sightings: California and just about everywhere else
- Through The Nose: Low on fruit, high on herbs and grass
- On the Tongue: Medium-bodied, crisp
A common blending wine in its native France, Sauvignon Blanc is becoming more common as house wine, since it goes so well with food. Domestic vintners are starting to use more of this grape because its aromas differ so much from the more fruity grapes (Chard, Reisling, Gewurztraminer) and it makes for a good blending wine. If you're used to smelling the sweet, round aromas of CalChards, one whiff of a good SB may knock you back a few steps — it's got a few sharp edges around the nose. Also known by its alternative name, Fume (Smoky) Blanc.
Try This:
Geyser Peak 1997 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma County CA) $8
A domestic SB that epitomizes dry — a single glass sucks all moisture from your mouth. The opposite of a thirst quencher — the more you drink, the more cotton-mouthed you get. The Geyser Peak keeps a full nose of the herby (almost gamey) smells of the classic Sauvignon Blanc — which may be an obstacle for the uninitiated. Not much of a stand-alone sipper, but perfectly suited to accompany any meal.
Chenin Blanc
- Old World Roots: France (Central Loire Valley, see 4)
- New World Sightings: California, South Africa
- Through The Nose: Floral, and vaguely mineral
- On the Tongue: Light-bodied, high acid
French wine folk will identify this varietal as "Vouvray", named for the villages famous for the cultivation of this particular workhorse grape. The light body of the Chenin Blanc is counteracted by its peculiar texture — usually described as "oily." (Not exactly a positive association in post-Valdez America, but whatcha gonna do?)
Try This:
Bogle 1997 Chenin Blanc (Clarksburg CA) $8.50
Damn, this is another excruciatingly dry wine. Little bits of chalk (minerals?) in the aftertaste balanced with a touch of sweetness around the bottom of the tongue. Not quite what I would call a great sipping wine, but it fit perfectly alongside seared scallops with fennel and tomato.
Trocken Zie Deutsche: German-style dry/sweet wines
Gewürztraminer
- Old World Roots: Germany (see 6), French Alsace (see 1)
- New World Sightings: California, Oregon, Washington, Coastal Canada
- Through The Nose: Every spice, flower, and fruit you could possibly imagine
- On the Tongue: A full-bodied blast of fruit that magically dissipates schnell schnell
Get this: The short name for this fruity German varietal is pronounce "guh VURTZ." And when you get right down to it, it's downright FUN to say.
But the wine itself is actually pretty amazing. Gew�rztraminers, like Reislings and other German wines, have a reputation for being overly sweet, almost dessert-type, wines. But done right (in the Alsatian or traditional German trocken styles ) the huge flavors hang around for the perfect length of time, then lift off the tongue like magic.
Try These:
De Loach Early Harvest (Russian River CA) $11
OK, so this one violates the ten dollar rule, but it's a classic Alsatian-style gewurtz that deftly avoids the sweet trap. The key word here is balance — all the fragrance and round flavors of a German wine with an aftertaste that doesn't hang around for breakfast. Strong enough to be a consistently intriguing sipping wine or a worthy sidekick to any spice-heavy cuisine.
Fetzer 1996 Gewürztraminer (North Coast CA) $7.50
This particular vintage got a lot of good buzz and scored big on aroma, but seemed to reinforce the "German = sweet" connection. Whooooooo! So sweet that Rodney Dangerfield could do ten minutes on it. ("I'm talkin' SWEET!") A good bet for CalChard devotees looking to slum a bit — Deutsche style. For dry wine aficionados, let this be the wine that proves the rule — pay a few bucks more to assure a drier drink.
Reisling
- Old World Roots: Germany (see 6), French Alsace (see 1)
- New World Sightings: Washington State, California, Australia
- Through The Nose: Summer fruits (peaches, citrus) and lavender
- On the Tongue: Medium-bodied with just the right bit of crispness
YUM! A little higher in acid and lighter in body than the venerable Gew�rtz, the Reisling can be just as interesting as its spicy counterpart. This juicy wine manages to keep a bit of an acidic edge to it. Though it doesn't quite lift like a drier Gewurtz, the medium-body works well with just about any popular spicy cuisine, or enjoyed alone. A good Reisling will always give you some flavor or smell to ponder on.
Try This:
Hogue Cellars 1997 Johannisberg Riesling (Prosser WA) $7.50
All the offerings from this Washington winery do a double whammy for the novice wine buyer — great wines with fantastic graphic design. (Odds are if you shop by label aesthetics, you'll score with the wines as well.) Their 97 Columbia Valley Reisling has just enough acid to accentuate the accompanying summer fruit aromas. Amazingly versatile, this wine will probably end up being Pableaux's house white for the remainder of the summer.
Bianco Italiano
Pinot Grigio
- Old World Roots: Italy, France (as Pinot Gris), Alsace (as Tokay-Pinot Gris)
- New World Sightings: Oregon, Washington State
- Through The Nose: Cutting, crisp
- On the Tongue: Light bodied, high-acid, and immediately dry
Another one that's damn fun to say (more so than its French counterpart, pee no gree). In one form or another, this varietal is grown just about everywhere, with the wines reflecting characteristics of the native soil.
| "The acidic, nearly astringent wine cleanses (no� squeegees) the palate in between bites..." |
In Italy, Pinot Grigio grapes are responsible for the whisper-light wines of the Veneto, the wine growing region around Venice.
These wines tend toward neutral flavors, which strangely enough is exactly what makes them so versatile with lighter cuisines.
Pinot Grigios are teamed with bold and subtle flavors of Italian seafood — including the addictive Linguine al Vongele (clams with white wine and browned garlic). The acidic, nearly astringent wine cleanses (no... squeegees) the palate in between bites and can make for a truly spiritual eating experience. A great food wine (especially if you've got great food to match).
Try This:
Pasqua 1996 Pinot Grigio delle Venezie $7.00
True to the Italian style, this bright and light white doesn't linger on the tongue or the nose. It's a no-nonsense Grigio that can adapt itself to whatever you're cooking that night (with the possible exception of citrus-based dishes).
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Pableaux Johnson lives in Austin, Texas, where he writes about food and travel. He believes that a perfect meal in a lowbrow restaurant can make you see God and bring you to the center of a subculture.
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