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Title: The Fannie Farmer Cookbook, 13th Edition
Author: Marion Cunningham (illustrated by Lauren Jarrett)
Year 1990
Publisher: Knopf
Price: $27.50 US hardcover, $7.99 paperback
Review by: Janet Daly


big picture | clip | smarts

THE BIG PICTURE

Ask 100 American women the first cookbook they really used, and you're likely to hear everything from "The Joy of Cooking" to "The Betty Crocker Cookbook." Each has its own slant and dedicated following. The first cookbook I used (at age 7) was a green, broken spine, clothcover "Fannie Farmer Cookbook" belonging to my Dad. Now that I purport to be an adult, I have my own broken spine copy of the most recent edition, and I couldn't be happier.

Marion Cunningham performed a complete overhaul on the original cookbook in 1979, then updated it in 1990. All the basics of cooking are there: essential vs. optional tools; staples; cooking terms; techniques presented in an easy-to-read style. In addition to older traditional recipes, she's added ones that fit more modern tastes and diets (sections on microwave cooking, outdoor cooking, snacks and vegetarian recipes). Vegetable dishes are marked with an icon, and new items are color-coded, so you can easily identify the new arrivals.

This is not a book for the pretentious. Mrs. Cunningham suggests we admit "there is really no such thing as gourmet cooking — there is simply good cooking." In six years of cooking with this book, I've yet to find a dud, or make something that didn't make the eater say "mmmmmmmmmmmmmore?"

CLIPS

Guido's Spaghetti (serves 4-6)

This goes together in a flash. The simple flavors go well with cold chicken.

1 pound spaghetti or spaghettini
6 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup olive oil
4 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup, chopped parsley
salt to taste
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and cook the spaghetti until just tender, about 8-10 minutes. Put the butter, oil and garlic in a small saucepan and cook over medium heat until the butter is melted and the mixture is hot. Remove from heat and stir in the parsley. Drain the spaghetti, leaving about 1/3 cup of pasta water in the pot. Return the spaghetti to the pot, toss with the butter mixture, and add salt. Serve hot, topped with the Parmesan cheese. p. 331


Tip for checking eggs for freshness: An egg that is really stale will float or tip upward in a bowl of water. When cracked open, if the white and yolk cling together, the egg is very fresh. The older it gets, the flatter the yolk becomes and the runnier the white. face page

SMARTS

Marion Cunningham's revision of this cookbook is solid, but not at all stodgy. Beginners can take advantage of the first chapter and learn about ingredients (and how to prepare them), tools, and techniques. Every term is explained in clear language. Experienced cooks will love the range of simple but tasty fare. With over 1,900 recipes (including 325 new items), you're bound to find something you like that's easy to make.


You can now order the 100th anniversary edition of "The Fannie Farmer Cookbook" from amazon.com.

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