For the budget traveler in search of the cinematic experience, New York tends to resemble more the world of Martin Scorsese and less that of Woody Allen. And let's face it, there isn't any great demand for walking tours of "Mean Streets" or "Taxi Driver." But if you have a little cash, chasing the aura of "Manhattan" or "Annie Hall" makes for a weekend that is splendidly New York.
In the early years of his career as a television writer and stand-up comic, Greenwich Village was Woody's neighborhood. After getting thrown out of NYU (he cheated on his Metaphysics final by looking inside the soul of the boy sitting next to him), the tragically unhip young auteur settled in the Village. Today, the vibe of the Village remains true to its past. Take an open-eyed walk from Washington Square Park down MacDougall Street and onto Bleeker Street. Grab a slice of pizza at John's on Bleeker, which is still Woody's favorite. Bibliophiles should visit the Pageant Book and Print Shop, on 9th Street just east of 4th Avenue. This was the setting for the e.e. cummings sequence in "Hannah and Her Sisters." Before moving uptown, be sure to check out the outrageously quaint Washington Mews, one block above Washington Square on 5th Avenue. The cobblestone street, lined with former stables, appeared in the architecture tour in "Hannah," and offers a classic New York juxtaposition with the Upper West Side, Woody's current digs.
As you emerge from the subway on Broadway or Central Park West, you may find yourself humming the climactic strains of Gershwin's "Rhapsody in Blue." Beyond the endless strolling grounds available (be sure to walk into Central Park far enough to catch a glimpse of the architecture of Central Park West. Note the twin-spired San Remo and The Langham at 135, where Mia's apartment was featured in "Hannah"), there are two New York institutions which must be visited: The American Museum of Natural History and Zabar's. In "Manhattan," Woody and Diane Keaton find refuge from a thunderstorm at the Museum's Haydn Planetarium. You should run there as well, especially now that the dinosaurs are back. It's a great exhibit. The Museum is on Central Park West at 79th Street. Zabar's (Broadway at 80th) offers almost as many great sights as the Museum. I'm not sure if this indescribable food wonderland ever appeared in Woody's films, but I know for a fact that each character shopped there religiously. They just have to. Keep your eyes on the Thalia Theater (95th, just west of Broadway), where Woody takes Diane Keaton to see "The Sorrow and the Pity" in "Annie Hall." While it has been closed since April '95, there have been signs of life in recent months.
Skip across Central Park to the Upper East Side and the Museum Mile for two aesthetic backdrops: The Museum of Modern Art and The Whitney Museum of American Art. The Whitney (Madison Avenue at 75th) appeared in "Manhattan" and offers a wonderful and often outrageous collection. MoMA (53rd Street between 5th and 6th Avenues) also showed up in "Manhattan," and harbors one of the world's great collections of modern art.
Along with New Orleans jazz (see below), classical music and opera provide constant accompaniment to Woody's evocative images of New York. Visiting the opera or the symphony is an elemental part of our visit. It can be extremely expensive, but as with so much of New York, there are bargains for those who seek them. The Metropolitan Opera sells standing room tickets for about $11. Tickets go on sale on Saturday mornings at 10. The New York Philharmonic has rehearsals open to the public on Thursday mornings from September to June for $5. Both performances are at the Lincoln Center (W. 62nd Street and Broadway). Of course, if your tastes turn more towards the physical (and what Woody Allen fan's wouldn't), you could scrap all that and try to catch a Knicks game at Madison Square Garden (7th Avenue, between 31st and 33rd).
For dining, there are countless options in Woody's New York. A bustling scene at Elaine's (1703 2nd Avenue) opens "Manhattan." Unfortunately, the high prices at Elaine's reflect the star-studded clientele, not the routine Italian cuisine. There is also The Russian Tea Room (150 W. 57th), another institution visited in "Manhattan." For my money, though, the finest New York dining experience is still The Carnegie Deli (854 7th Avenue, at 55th). Few constructions can match the architecturally tenuous corned beef sandwich at the Carnegie. It is still very much as it appeared in "Broadway Danny Rose."
Finally, for nightlife, there is but one option. For almost 25 years, The New Orleans Funeral and Ragtime Orchestra has been packing 'em in at Michael's Pub on Monday nights. The primary reason is their clarinetist: Mr. Woody Allen. Keep in mind that Michael's recently moved to The Parker Meridien Hotel at 188 West 57th, and is now known as Michael's Pub at the Bar Montparnasse. Be sure to get there early and get a table in the middle of the room for best viewing.
It really is a terrific town. And luckily, we have a host who has gone to the trouble to put together some rather witty travel guides to help us out. Have a blast, and pick me up a dozen bagels and some coffee from Zabar's.
Or tell us about the books and movies that have inspired your travels in this week's survey: Choose Your Own Literatour.
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