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<font size="+2"><b>Dirty Harry's<br>
San Francisco</b></font>
<p>
<b>by craig boreth</b>
<p>
<img src="../../../../img/www_subdomain/trans.gif" width="180" height="1" border="0">
<p>
<font color="#0066CC"><b>Resources:</b></font>
<p>
Yahoo! San Francisco
<p>
Intellicast's SF Weather
<p>
San Francisco Bay Guardian on the Web — news, nightlife, even singles ads.
<p>
San Francisco Subway Navigator
<p>
Clint Eastwood on the Web, including filmography, timeline and video clips.
<p>
</td>
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<font size="+1">
<p><font size="+2">I</font> don't know if you've seen "The Rock," but early in the film Sean Connery and Nicholas Cage tear up a sizable chunk of San Francisco with a Humvee and a Ferrari. I miss the good old days, when all you needed was a cheap suit, a pulsing forehead vein, and a .44 Magnum to tear up a sizable chunk of the city. Whenever mayhem came to San Francisco (as it always seemed to do) in the form of serial killers, kidnappers, urban terrorists, rogue cops or vigilantes, you could always count on the marvelously un-p.c. Harry Callahan to stir things up a little.
<p>We first met Harry in 1971, racing around the city to stop a rooftop shooter and save a kidnapped girl. When the city-wide drag net was spread to catch Scorpio, Harry was assigned to North Beach, centered on Columbus Avenue north of Broadway. This densely populated, ethnically diverse neighborhood is the perfect backdrop whatever your pleasure, be it a leisurely stroll through <b>Washington Square Park</b> or a manic rooftop chase. Either way, take a break at <b>Mario's Bohemian Cigar Store</b> (566 Columbus) for a sandwich and cup of coffee.
<p>When night falls on the city, things really pick up. North Beach offers great live music in small, dark clubs. Visit <b>The Grant & Green Saloon</b> (at the corner of Grant and Green). Once a Beat hangout, there's still live music every night and an aura of bygone days. And while <b>Pearl's</b> no longer has the 2 am show, it's still got great jazz every night.
<p>Of course, Harry was a workaholic, and spent his nights tailing the suspect. When you're tailing a maniacal killer, there's a good chance you'll end up in the <b>Red Light District</b>. On Broadway east of Columbus you'll find a rainbow-lit string of strip joints. You can still see the sights at <b>The Roaring 20s</b> at 552 Broadway. No doubt Harry and Frank "too much linguine" Di Giorgio kept an eye on the strip from <b>Little Joe's on Broadway</b> (523 Broadway), a devastating Italian restaurant just across the street.
<p>With North Beach as home base, climb up Telegraph Hill to catch a glimpse of the city and the bay from <b>Coit Tower</b>. The tower also provides a great view of the <b>Golden Gate Bridge</b> and <b>Alcatraz</b>, both constant backdrops to Harry's unique brand of justice. Clint has been to Alcatraz a few times in his career, and the tour of the prison lives up to expectations. The ferry to the island leaves from Pier 41 on Fisherman's Wharf. (Keep in mind that with today's tighter security, you do have to check your bazooka at the terminal before boarding.)
<p>In the climax of "Dirty Harry," Scorpio takes a young girl hostage and leaves a ransom note in Golden Gate Park. He demands a lone runner bring him the money in a yellow briefcase. Harry, of course, takes the job. To make sure he's alone, Scorpio runs Harry all over town before collecting his ransom. He starts at the <b>Marina</b>, between Fisherman's Wharf and the Golden Gate Bridge. Harry was kind of busy, but you might want to take some time and for an Ultimate Frisbee game on the Marina Green, or stroll through Fort Mason, which has been converted into a mini-artist colony. By the way, San Francisco's <b>Youth Hostel</b> is just a bit east of Fort Mason. Follow the footpath along the water.
<p>From there, Harry is run around and brought back to <b>Aquatic Park</b>, which is further east along that same path from Fort Mason towards Fisherman's Wharf. The narrow breakwater offers a beautiful view of Ghirardelli Square, the former chocolate factory now full of shops and galleries. The next stop is <b>Mt. Davidson Park</b>. It's not worth going out of your way to visit, but if you are heading down into the Sunset District, stop in and see the park with its giant cross. On a clear day you can get a look at the Farralon Islands Maritime Sanctuary offshore.
<p>If you're going to spend any time in a park in San Francisco, it has to be <b>Golden Gate Park</b>, the second largest urban park in the country. There is more to do than torture murder suspects in Kezar Stadium, but to each his own. Try the <b>California Academy of Sciences</b> or the <b>Japanese Tea Garden</b>. This is also prime rollerblading territory. All a little clean for Harry (can you imagine a high speed blade chase?), but cities change, and bad young things eventually become the good ole boys.
<p>On your way out of the park, walk down Haight Street, straight into the legendary past of San Francisco. This is the land of acid, The Grateful Dead and head shops: all except the Dead are still plentiful. Grab a bite at <b>Zona Rosa</b> (1797 Haight), which offers a fine people-watching window and killer burritos. Of course, Harry was more likely to support his twice daily foot-long and beer habit downtown near City Hall. His favorite greasy spoon is no longer there, but you may recognize the intersection where he broke up the bank robbery and delivered his first infamous monologue, at the corner of Van Ness and Pine; where he said with that cocky smirk: "I know what you're thinking, did he fire six shots or only five. Well, to tell you the truth in all this confusion I lost track myself..."
<p>In addition to the mayhem, the setting, and Harry's biting one-liners, one more thing makes "Dirty Harry" a hands-down classic: the soundtrack. It's classic 70s cheese, and man is it funky. Catch of bit of that spirit with the house band at <b>Jack's on Fillmore</b> (1601 Fillmore) near Japantown. This band has been playing weekends for years, and they really jam. The dance floor is packed, but be sure to move in and catch a glimpse of the crushed-velvet-draped Hammond "Cheesemaster" 3000 organ.
<p>These days Harry is thoroughly incorrect, but still likeable. He reminds us that this idyllic, picturesque town has a seedy underside, but the discovery is not unpleasant. Dive in and experience it: when the jam is particularly hot, and the crowd gets a little fired up, San Francisco can really rock and anything can happen; you just have to ask yourself one question: Do you feel lucky? Well, do ya...?
<p>
</font>
<center><a href="../../../../www_subdomain/homelife/columns/literatour.html">Why not take another Literatour?</a></center><p>
<hr><p>
<b>Craig Boreth</b> is the author of "Run With the Bulls: The Adventurer's Guide
to Hemingway's The Sun Also Rises." Visit his Web site for
more information, or to order the book.
<p>
Illustration by <a href="mailto:fjordan@ideaw.com.mx">Federico Jordan</a>, a freelance illustrator based in Mexico.
<p>
© 1996 Tripod, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
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