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LIVING & TRAVEL Escape from Casablanca by craig boreth Back to Literatour index page. Resources: Tripod's Review of Paul Bowles' Collected Stories: Bowles takes you across North Africa, through deserts and caves; where old ladies swallow scorpions, dogs carry demons, and six words can cause a man to slip into fissures of time. The One and Only Morocco Web: History, sports, culture, cooking, how to get there, what to do, even a Moroccan dictionary! Morocco Web's Casablanca, "the economic capital of Morocco." Morocco Web's Fez, "a world of culture." Intellicast's Casablanca Weather Report Casablanca Autographics: Synopsis and trivia. (The studio didn't pick an ending until after the film was shot. Would Ilsa go with Laszlo or stay behind with Rick? After they saw the first ending on film, the second was never shot.) The Casasablanca Homepage is a gallery of the stars of the film. Take a look at the round up of usual supsects. Casablanca Soundclips -- from "all the gin joints" to the entire "Time Goes By."

Read the following quote with the stoic, baritone urgency of a 1940s cinematic voice-over: "With the coming of the Second World War, many eyes in imprisoned Europe turned hopefully, or desperately, toward the freedom of the Americas. Lisbon became the great embarkation point. But not everybody could get to Lisbon directly; and so, a tortuous, roundabout refugee trail sprang up: Paris to Marseilles, across the Mediterranean to Oran, then by train, or auto, or foot, across the rim of Africa to Casablanca in French Morocco. Here, the fortunate ones through money, or influence, or luck, might obtain exit visas and scurry to Lisbon, and from Lisbon to the New World. But the others wait in Casablanca, and wait, and wait, and wait..." Imagine yourself in Paris. Autumn. A pleasant enough endeavor, indeed. Now imagine it is PARIS, 1941. The staccato drone of the teletype brings news of further advances of the Nazi war machine launching eastward assaults on Russia. All of Europe is aflame, and you know not when, how, or even if this atrocity will ever end. You live, you survive in Paris, but the clocks read Germany time. You must escape. Thus, the historical pretense is set for the 1942 film, "Casablanca." Today, one of the most fertile sources of cinematic cliché, "Casablanca" remains a remarkably engaging film. It may at first appear to be a story about Rick and Casablanca, but it is as much a tale of the refugees, their unspeakable past and unfathomable future, and the places they imagine in their dreams or flee in their nightmares. "Everyone comes to Rick's." That's Rick's Cafe Americain, a stylish bar and casino atop the list of both high and low society in unoccupied French Morocco. Both desperate refugees and swindlers come to Rick's, the former looking to buy passage to the New World, the latter hoping to make a buck on the pretense of selling freedom. Two letters of transit stolen from murdered German couriers come to Rick's. These letters allow safe and unquestioned passage for anyone who holds them. Soon thereafter, underground leader Victor Laszlo and his beautiful wife Ilsa come to Rick's seeking escape. Somehow, amidst the bitter reunion of Rick and Ilsa, the heartless pursuit by Major Heinrich Strasser of the Third Reich and the corrupt antics of the Vichy police captain, resolution appears through the early morning mist on the tarmac at Casablanca airport. Escaping war-torn Europe: that is what gave "Casablanca" its aura of espionage and urgency. Ultimately, it gave the film its timeless edge of intrigue: the intrigue of refugees and travelers. Let us follow the refugees' path, strewn with their very humanity and desire. It is a trip deep into the tiny lives that shaped world events, one by one. Now you are Richard Blaine or Victor Laszlo in Paris, 1940 or '41. You must escape. Your humility and disbelief prevents you from speaking aloud what you know to be the truth: the future of the World depends on it. Paris: The Stirring Pray for strength against the invaders at the tomb of Sainte-Genevieve in Saint-Étienne-du-Mont next to the Pantheon. Genevieve once turned away Attila the Hun's forces before they besieged Paris. Find strength in the strains of the Marseillaise, as Victor did at Rick's. Honor the fallen at Père Lachaise Cemetery, the eastern side of which is dedicated to Résistance fighters and Holocaust victims. Finally, stroll along the Champs Élysées and imagine the Nazi troops parading in the Place de la Concorde. Stand before the Hôtel de Ville, visualize through teared eyes that very first swastika replacing the tricolor on the flagpole, then catch the TGV to Lyon to meet with awaiting operatives. Lyon: The Plot Lyon is not specifically mentioned in the refugee route, but it was certainly a destination for those who ran with good reason. Lyon, you see, was the heart of the Résistance movement. Stealthily depart the train at Gare de Perrache, the platform is littered with agents. Rendezvous that evening in the labyrinthine streets of Croix Rousse or Vieux Lyon, where resistance organizers could literally disappear when chased. Stroll with care through Place Bellecour, the largest open square in all of Europe, for it is here where Résistance members were publically executed by Germans and collaborators. Marseilles: Set Sail Marseilles is a tough town; even the Nazis found her so. Le Panier, the oldest neighborhood which runs from the Cathedrals east down to the Old Port, was teeming with the "vermin" of Résistance Leaders, Communists and Jews. In 1943, the Nazis allocated one day for the entire area to be cleared. The following day, they razed all of Le Panier, leaving what few old buildings met their high architectural standards. All that remain to evoke that vibrant quarter are the Hôtel de Ville on the Quai du Port, the Maison Daimantée and the Hôtel de Cabre on the corner of Grand Rue and rue Bonneterie. SNCM runs ferries from Marseilles to Oran in Algeria from May to December. Ferries are rather infrequent, so call to get the schedule (91 56 32 00). Oran: Landfall Oran, while not the most interesting of cities, is an excellent example of the influence of the Spanish and the Moors on northern Africa. Hike from downtown to the top of the Murdjadjo plateau (1300 feet) to the Fort de Santa Cruz for a staggering view of the surrounding lands. You may feel a bit more secure off the Continent, but in northern Africa, looks are often deceiving. Catch the train to Fez for sanctuary in her most ancient medina, or Arab neighborhood. Fez: Exploration Fez is our only African destination that feels at all like wartime Casablanca (or the Hollywood version of wartime Casablanca). The rich bazaars and braided alleyways are a perfect hideout. The medieval history of Fez thrives today in Fez-el-Bali, or Old Fez. If getting lost is your ambition, it will be quickly realized. Rest assured, getting found is merely a matter of following the surging crowds to popular interchanges. Fez is the Moroccan mecca of crafts. The streets of Old Fez are lined with hundreds upon hundreds of merchants hawking leather, silver, ceramics, and even a brooding, black falcon statue, but that's a story for another day. There is still time to get lost again before the train departs for Casablanca. Casablanca: Escape All that remains in Casablanca of the bustling, mischievous town of the film is one thing: the urge to flee. This is a big port city, and if there was ever any charm here, it is long gone. Harbor fond memories of intricate Fez, avoid the Casablanca bar at the Hyatt Regency, and hop the plane to Lisbon. For your best shot at a direct flight, try Royal Air Morocco (1-800-344-6726). Lisbon: Celebration Lisbon is a wonderful city in which to celebrate, and the best neighborhood is the Bairro Alto. Take the yellow funicular from Praca dos Restauradores up to the center of Lisbon's nightlife. Lounge in a velvet armchair and sip a glass of port at Instituto do Vinho do Porto on Rua de Sao Pedro de Alcantera 45. After the heroic ordeal you have just endured, nothing ever tasted so much like freedom. Be sure to visit the Mercado de Ribeira at Cais de Sodre before leaving, for somewhere amidst the vegetables and herbs, it contains the heart of Lisbon. New York: Remembrance Victor Laszlo, no doubt, cruised into New York Harbor on a clipper. Today, you'll fly into JFK or Newark, but the newly renovated Ellis Island remains an essential stop to remember those who risked so much to come here. Take the ferry from Battery Park or Liberty State Park in New Jersey (Fare: $6; Information: 212-269-5755), passing under the vast shadow of the Statue of Liberty. Since the inception of Ellis Island, 100 years ago, 12 million immigrants have passed through. Their descendants account for 40% of today's American population. You may not see the names of Victor Laszlo and Ilsa Lund on the American Immigrant Wall of Honor, but they must be in there, somewhere... Back to Literatour index page. Craig Boreth is the author of "Run With the Bulls: The Adventurer's Guide to Hemingway's The Sun Also Rises." Visit his Web site for more information, or to order the book. Illustration by Federico Jordan, a freelance illustrator based in Mexico. © 1996 Tripod, Inc. All Rights Reserved.