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LIVING & TRAVEL Third in a Series Index WEB TOOLS Sedetur - Department of Tourism for Oaxaca (Spanish) La Jornada en Internet (Spanish) Daily News from Mexico City (English) Language Schools in Oaxaca (Spanish)

Entry 3: Wednesday, March 27, 1996: Oaxaca Sitting on UAL flight 1011, surrounded by a group of Mormon missionaries, my 2 month assignment began to feel like a mere jaunt compared to the 22 month tour of duty they were embarking on. My goal here is to demonstrate that travel in Mexico need not cost an arm and a leg. In fact, the cheaper you travel, the more rewarding your trip will be. Armed with a letter of introduction from the Mexican consulate in San Francisco, and less money per day than you'd make working the Taco Bell register, I hopped on a flight for Mexico City with 35 pounds on my back -- 15 of those pounds in paperwork. Airfares to Mexico City from major US hubs start from 300 dollars. Courier flights from New York, Chicago, and LA can be had for much less. From the D.F. (Federal District of Mexico), domestic airlines service the rest of the country for under 100 dollars one-way. A modern and efficient bus system serves as the primary form of intercity transport. At about one dollar per hour of travel, first class service puts Greyhound to shame. The best value accommodations in Mexico are colonial style hotels favored by Mexican families and traveling salespeople. These hotels are spacious (built to accommodate traditionally large Mexican families), clean, and always provide friendly service -- from only 10 USD per night. In Mexico (as the capital is referred to throughout the rest of the country) I stayed in the Hotel Montecarlo (Republica de Uruguay No. 69, tel. 5181418), D.H. Lawrence's hideaway during his years as a writer in Mexico. For less than 15 USD a night, two people share a large, airy room with hot water and private bath; rooms with a shared bath go for less than 10 USD. The hotel is located only a few blocks away from the Zocalo (central plaza) and the vibrant center of town. A six hour bus ride brought me to the tranquil city of Oaxaca, capital and vibrant cultural center of Southern Mexico. Relatively new to Oaxaca are "casas de recamaras con desayuno," or bed and breakfasts. Similar to the "casa de huespues" (families renting rooms to travelers on an individual basis) the recamaras allow guests to enjoy unqualified hospitality and partake of traditional family life, often for less than the price of a hotel. I had the pleasure of staying with the Arroyo family in Oaxaca (Reforma 403), where for 15 USD per night I was treated to breakfast and received a temescal (traditional steam bath). The adjacent cafe serves organic and vegetarian meals, made from ancient recipes and strictly homegrown vegetables from the family garden. The best of the fascinating and most vibrant culture of this diverse region of Mexico is usually free. Breezy nights passed around the central plaza include free music presented by the state and national marimba and mariachi ensembles. Itinerant musicians roam the cafes around the Zocalo serenading couples, and local artisans hawk their wares. Frequent festivals, public processions and religious ceremonies never fail to bring together a diverse crowd of locals and curious tourists. Local libraries and museums regularly sponsor free movies and other cultural programs, open free to the public. Day trips to nearby Indian villages for "Dias de Plaza" (open air markets), where locals from surrounding pueblos converge to swap goods, afford great opportunity to observe a traditional gathering unobtrusively. Trips to these "tianguis," as they are called, involve no more than a 50 cent second class bus ride -- just be prepared to share space with children and chickens. As a general rule, travelers are welcomed into rural communities with a hospitality unknown in the US. Artists and craftpersons invite visitors into their homes and workshops to learn about the traditions they practice. To really get off the beaten path in Oaxaca, rent a mountain bike and explore the footpaths that connect the capital with outlying villages. Pedro Martinez fully equipped rentals (10 USD per day) include maps of local byways and enthusiastic advice for all levels of aspiration. He is located on J.P. Garcia No. 509, telephone 951-4-31-44, a few blocks south of the zocalo. And finally, proof that in Oaxaca, the best things in life are still (almost) free: Local women and ambulatory children sell their homemade baked goods and treats on the streets, similar to neighborhood kids and their lemonade stands. Check noticeboards at bookstores, libraries, galleries and museums for free goings-on. Wander in the labyrinthine markets and sample the myriad unknown goods. Check back here next week to read about the Pacific Coast, Puerto Escondido, Puerto Angel and Zipolite. Andrew Nystrom is a 21 year-old Geography-Linguistics student at the University of California at Berkeley. Currently on sabbatical, he has been working as a freelance editor/travel correspondent. Previous travels have taken him to Indonesia, Scandinavia, Ireland, and Guatemala. He was most recently the editor of the Berkeley Guide to Central America for 1996.