The Berkeley Guides:
Berkeley Guide to Europe:
Austria:
The Donau Valley
Austria's Donau (Danube) Valley has been producing world-famous wine for millennia. Starting with the nectar-loving Celts, the tradition continued after the Romans moved in, and today locals still lovingly tend to their grapes. Throughout the valley, vineyards cascade from hill to bank and marvelous castles and abbeys suddenly appear behind every river bend. Don't leave the valley without indulging in a little vino and regional culture at the many Heurigen (wine taverns), where wine makers open up their gardens and serve the latest vintage. For a more aerobic take on the valley, rent two wheels and hit the Donauradweg: Austria's most famous bike trail starts in Passau (Germany) and runs through Linz, Melk, Krems, and Vienna, all the way to Bratislava in Slovakia. Many cyclists take advantage of it, so don't be surprised to see everyone from buttpack-totin' kiddies to grannies in black Spandex shorts. The Donauuferbahn (Danube train) also follows the river from Vienna's Franz-Joseph-Bahnhof upstream to St. Valentin, 20 minutes short of Linz. With a single ViennaSalzburg ticket, you can make as many stops as you want for up to four days; with a round-trip ticket, you can do the same for up to two months.
Probably the loveliest, and easily the most romantic way to check out the area, is from on board the ferries that ply the river; the stretch from Krems to Melk is especially well-endowed with natural and man-made gems. Best of all, EurailPass holders ride free. You can also combine bikes and boats--cycles rented at all DDSG ferry stations go for 35 AS with that day's cruise ticket (70 AS each additional day). For other possibilities, get in touch with Donau Cruises (DDSG Donaureisen) (off Hauptpl., tel. 0732/783607) in Linz.
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