The Berkeley Guides:
Berkeley Guide to Europe:
Morocco:
Background Information for
Morocco
By Matthew Reid
Moroccans love to go on and on about their hospitality--especially their practice of taking visitors under their wings, feeding them couscous, and becoming lifelong friends. And a lucky few visitors do come away completely seduced--some by the people, some by Morocco's half-modern, half-medieval society, and some simply by the landscape. But an unfortunately large contingent--particularly budget travelers eager, but too paranoid, to mix with the crowd on the street--are so plagued by hustlers that they cut their visits short and rate the trip a net loss.
The hustlers--an umbrella term that includes unofficial tour guides, self-inflicted friends, dope dealers, and assorted scam artists--are more annoying than dangerous, and might better be considered a challenge than a threat. So before you turn and flee, reassess what appears to be a sticky situation and just handle it. At worst you may be coerced into buying an overpriced carpet, or you may "accept" (i.e., finally break down and say yes to) an invitation to a persistent con man's home--and then be asked to hand over some traveler's checks in exchange for a ride back to your hotel. The best advice is to go with your intuition and to not fall prey to paranoia. Ultimately, Moroccans are very civilized and they love a kooky foreigner, so learn to loosen up and laugh. You can also minimize threat by (1) acting decisively and always knowing in advance where you want to go, (2) expressing your total lack of money and credit cards, (3) politely refusing all requests to be shown around or escorted to a hotel, restaurant--whatever, and (4) remembering that every price a merchant quotes is BULLSHIT (announced prices can be five10 times what most will settle for).
The average monthly income in Morocco is about $100, which explains why hustlers are so eager to separate foreign tourists from their money. On the upside, if the delicate peace in the Middle East survives, it could mean an annual 15%20% jump in tourism plus increased trade, which may help jump-start the moribund Moroccan economy. Another hopeful sign is the recent cessation of hostilities in Western Sahara. King Hassan II started the resource-draining skirmishes there in 1975, largely as a propaganda maneuver, but today, with the help of a United Nationsbacked peace initiative, armed encounters with southern separatists are becoming less common, ostensibly freeing up money for things like hospitals, schools, and roads.
King Hassan II's ancestors, the 'Alawites, have ruled as sultans of Morocco for more than 300 years. Hassan's father, Mohammed V, started calling himself "king" when the state gained independence from France and Spain in 1956. Since then, the two kings have been virtually deified. Hassan II is leader of the faith, head of the army, and the unchallenged big cheese of government; his picture hangs in nearly every Moroccan shop and business, gazing down like a mildly benevolent Big Brother.
The 'Alawites have produced their share of palaces and monuments, but it was the earlier dynasties--especially the 13th-century Almohads and their successors, the Merenids--who, in their kingdom-forging days, erected the ornate religious buildings that were once the splendid envy of the Islamic world. Today, these mosques, together with various medinas (old towns) and markets, are the country's chief architectural attractions. But Morocco isn't really about tourist sights. It's about expanding your cultural horizons--pausing for the call to prayer, greeting a pilgrim fresh from Mecca, or simply learning the tradition of touching your chest after a handshake. In markets it's about smells (goats, crushed mint, sun-baked spices) and sounds (distant religious chants, bickering merchants). If you're a stress case, it's about crafty carpet dealers who will wear you down with mint tea and charm. If you're a rugged type, it's about trekking in North Africa's highest mountains or surfing on deserted beaches.
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