The Berkeley Guides:
Berkeley Guide to Europe:
Portugal:
Lisbon
Portugal's capital city, like the rest of the country, is an appealing mix of tradition and modernity. The narrow cobblestone streets lined with stately old buildings are now frequently blocked by construction, as Lisbon prepares to host the 1998 World Expo and take a place, at least for a moment, at the center of the international stage. And though it might look like a conservative city with quiet streets and modestly dressed citizens by day, by night Lisbon's bars and nightclubs rival those of any European capital. The city has its share of problems as well: Urban pollution, traffic jams, and slums have become a part of life in Lisbon. Surprisingly, it's still a very safe city, though as in most cities, it's not a great idea to walk alone at night.
In 1755, a huge earthquake nearly wiped out the whole city, killing 40,000 and destroying many monuments and historical buildings. The traditional Arab fishing quarter known as the Alfama survived, and the neighborhood retains much of the character it had in medieval times. The surrounding area was rebuilt in a grid pattern; each street was named for a particular trade, and craftspeople plied their trades on the appropriate streets (Rua da Prata, for example, is Silversmith's Street). Remnants of Portugal's 15thand 16th-century heyday as a seafaring empire live on in the Manueline architecture of the monastery in Belém and the Rossio train station. To really appreciate Lisbon's charms, get away from the tourist attractions and explore the everyday life of the city. Parks fill up with old men playing cards or just watching life pass by, and loads of back alleyways, winding streets, and narrow stairways give you a glimpse into Lisbonites' lives. In June, the festas juninas (June festival) makes Lisbon an even more appealing destination. This month-long cultural and religious festival features everything from huge street parties to bullfights to concerts by artists from all over the world.
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